The Hermès Spring/Summer 2027 collection is a breath of fresh air: proof of just how contemporary the concept of chic can be when freed from all rigidity, without losing an ounce of its authority. Under the direction of Nadège Vanhée, who has led the house’s womenswear division since 2014, Hermès remains true to its heritage but shifts its rhythm: everything appears more fluid, brighter, and more immediate.
The recurring element that ties the entire collection together is the bandeau designed as a cut-out, consisting of two separate bands that leave a portion of the body exposed. It appears on strapless tops, is crossed by the iconic scarf twisted across the chest, reappears in more neutral versions wrapped around the waist, and returns in various designs throughout the collection. A single element that I find emblematic of the entire collection—a principle through which the collection introduces space, interruption, and movement. The silhouette is opened up, lightened, and broken by a void that becomes an integral part of the design itself.
Leather, Hermès’s signature material, remains the star of the show thanks to highly precise craftsmanship: high-waisted pencil skirts, trench coats that end in fringes, and jackets crafted from smooth, flawless leather, featuring round necklines and clean, minimalist proportions. It is leather that needs no introduction: the luxury lies in the material, the construction, and the precision of the surface. Color adds another dose of energy. Hermès orange meets warm browns, bright yellows, and earthier greens. Some skirts, seemingly uniform, conceal a second shade in the fringes at the hem, which emerges only with movement. Color thus becomes dynamic, appearing and disappearing as the body moves. Alongside the brighter hues, olive greens, deep grays, and neutral tones form a more subdued part of the wardrobe, featuring sporty-cut one-pieces with almost technical precision. The equestrian heritage remains intact but is absorbed into the present: in the boots, the monumental trench coats, the wide belted sashes with buckles, and, of course, the handbags. These are instantly recognizable codes, yet devoid of nostalgia. Hermès does not simply showcase its archives; it uses them as a living source of inspiration.
The result is a deeply chic wardrobe infused with a new energy. Strictness gives way to ease, structure to movement, and tradition to a form of modernity that requires no special effects. The cut-out bandeau becomes the defining element of the entire collection: a simple line that opens up the silhouette, introduces air, and recurs from start to finish like a visual thread. This is the most interesting aspect of this Hermès SS27 collection: elegance is not lightened to become “younger”—a term as overhyped as it is hollow—but simply to become more contemporary. Chic gains space, color, and movement, remaining impeccably Hermès while taking a fresher stride.
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