We’re used to thinking of Schiaparelli as a stage for pure experimentalism and formal virtuosity—featuring fabric treatments that push the limits of what’s possible, as well as unusual, zoomorphic, and at times alien decorations and accessories— the Schiaparelli ready-to-wear collection by Daniel Roseberry, the fashion house’s creative director, appears decidedly more understated. After all, in the manifesto accompanying the collection, titled “Going Clear,” Roseberry speaks precisely of the desire to strike a balance between rigor and softness, limiting the color palette to Schiap black, bone, and butter, with just a few pops of color, and creating a sort of modular wardrobe capable of preserving the graphic power of couture but with a more relaxed spirit. A return to simplicity and clarity that, in his view, also means stepping away from the “noise” of the fashion industry to seek a more personal and timeless voice.
In any case, the house’s design codes are instantly recognizable and echo the legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli, who made understated opulence—played out through black and gold—one of her hallmarks: dark velvets, plunging necklines, and dresses designed to follow and accentuate the body’s curves, rendering it both sensual and icy. Two-tone dresses with trompe-l’œil details, flowing silks, and ultra-short ruffled hot pants; outfits built around optical illusions alternate with more classic Schiaparelli-style suits, featuring a straight cut but characterized by wide, sensual necklines. A series of dresses also features circular and spiral patterns, either appliquéd and sewn directly onto the fabric’s surface or rendered as standalone elements, as in the case of a mesmerizing top that seems to rest on the body without support, almost suspended. However, there are also some decidedly more bizarre choices, such as crochet tops and accessories layered over shirts, where the texture and layering of the elements are less convincing. The same is true of certain lace-up details, which end up disrupting an otherwise delicate and carefully considered color balance.
In short, the brand’s signature elements are there. Perhaps, however, it would be wise to return to them more decisively and with greater consistency: to return to a more sophisticated approach—one that doesn’t always need to dazzle, but that can rediscover the enthusiasm found in the elegance of a simple cut or a tiny detail, without necessarily having to flaunt its technical virtuosity.
It’s undoubtedly a difficult task. So far, I’m not convinced by the direction it’s taking, but we’ll see. Among the many guests who attended the fashion show, seated at small café tables specially set up to evoke the atmosphere of a small cabaret, were stylist Law Roach, Barbara Berlusconi, Tate McRae, and DJ Peggy Gou—all looking incredibly elegant in outfits from the fashion house.
[📷 schiaparelli.com]
